Tying Instructions: Split Case PMD Nymph

1. Attach the hook to the vise. Make sure that the point and barb do not get pinched by the vise. Lay a thread foundation from behind the eye to the bend of the hook. You can verify this position by hanging the thread down with the bobbin and it should intersect with the middle of the barb.
Step One
2. Snip a small number of fibers from the Mallard Flank Feather with the tips even. Measure the length of the fibers against the shank, the tail length should be about 2/3 the shank length. Bring the fibers against the shank at the bend of the hook nearest to you. The thread pressure will bring the fibers to the top of the shank by it's tension. Secure the fibers to the top of the shank with thread wraps.

Step Two
3. Snip off the butt end of the tailing fibers behind the eye and secure with thread wraps. Place a piece of wire ribbing under the shank, behind the eye, and secure with thread wraps, wrapping back to the tail tie-in position. Try to keep the wire positioned at the bottom of the shank.

Step Three
4. At the tail tie-in position, apply a small amount of Superfine Dubbing to the thread. Slide the dubbing up the thread so that some of the fibers touch the shank. Give on wrap of the dubbed thread around the shank to secure the fibers. Now, you can twist the fibers further for a tighter dubbed thread to create a thin abdomen.
Step Four
5. Dub a tapered abdomen to just beyond the midpoint of the shank. You might have to add some additional dubbing to get a taper.
Step Five
6. Wrap the wire ribbing forward with about 5 equally spaced turns. Clip off the butt end of the wire and secure with thread wraps.
Step Six
7. Attach two Black Goose Biots by the butt ends behind the eye. Secure the biots with thread wraps to the abdomen. Note that there is a slight crossing of the biots with some overlap. This will give me a slight split effect. You can increase the split effect by placing the biots further down along the side of the shank.
Step Seven
8. Attach a thin section of Yellow .5mm razorfoam to the top of the shank behind the hook. I like to trim a small point to the material for securing. You can use white foam and mark it with a Yellow Highlighter. The edges of the foam should not exceed the width of the biots along the side edge, so make sure you use a thin section. Secure with thread wraps. Step Eight
9. Dub a thorax that is about twice the diameter of the abdomen. You might need to add dubbing as you go but, always, keep the amounts small. Step Nine
10. The thorax should be a tightly wrapped ball, taking care not to crowd the eye. Step Ten
11. Snip two small segments of Mallard Flank Fibers for the legs. Attach each segment just behind the eye to the top of the shank in a crossing position.Secure with only a couple of thread wraps.
Step Eleven
12. You can pull on the butt ends of each segment to adjust the length of the legs. I like to adjust the length so that they just exceed the length of the thorax. Then secure with 3-4 tight thread wraps.
Step Twelve
13. Pull the foam over the thorax and secure the foam just behind the eyes. Note the the edges of the foam do not exceed past the center of the thorax, allowing the legs to still splay out along the side of the thorax. Step Thirteen
14. Next, pull the two biots forward and secure these just behind the eye. Note the split, allowing the yellow foam to spot through. Secure with thread wraps. Step Thirteen
15. Trim off the butt ends of the biots and wrap a small thread head. Whip Finish. Step Thirteen

©2010Steve Schalla
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