Tying Instructions: Extended Body Mayfly, BWO
1. Cut a piece of Olive Hollow Tubing, Standard size about 3/4" in length. Slip three microfibetts inside. (You may have to do this one at a time, it's a small hole). By evening the butt ends, the tips should be even and adjust the fibetts to the length you desire. 1/2" to 3/4" is good.
Step One
2. Place the tubing in a serrated pliers. (I'm using a leatherman tool). Be sure that all of the tubing is within the pliers. The microfibett tails will be hanging out the end of the jaws. Place a flame at the base of the pliers for a short time interval, 10-15 seconds. Do not allow the flame to get near the microfibetts, they'll shrivel at once.
Step Two
3. Place the scud hook in the vise and attach the thread behind the eye laying a small thread foundation for the extended body.
Step Three
4. Attach the body to the hook shank. I adjusted the length of the body to be about 3/8 inches. Note the markings from the heated pliers leaving a segmented appearance. The marks will be more pronounced toward the tip of the body since the thinner portion of the plier jaws will convey heat more quickly.
Step Four
5. Next, place a drop of superglue to the thread wraps that attach the body. Use a bodkin needle to smooth out the drop evenly over the wraps. Make sure that no glue gets over the eye of the hook. Step Five
6. Separate the fibetts and apply another drop of glue to the base of the fibetts where they emerge from the tubing. Again, use a bodkin to apply and spread the glue evenly to the area.
Step Six
7. Select two Hen Cape Hackles and remove the basal fibers from the bottom of the quill until you get the length you desire. The hackle length equalling the length of the extended body is a good proportion.
Step Seven
8. Attach the hackles with the shiny side facing outwards, to the top of the tubing about midway on the shank.
Step Eight
9. Wrap the thread behind the pair of hackles to prop them in a vertical position. Apply a couple wraps in front of the pair to keep them from going forward. Trim off the butts of the quills and secure with some additional thread wraps.
Step Nine
10. Next, split the two hackles into a 45 degree angle by applying an x-wrap of thread between the pair. Do this with only a few wraps at the base.
Step Ten
11. Attach a dry fly hackle by the exposed quill to the side of the shank facing you. This should be behind the hackle wings with the dry fly hackle fibers facing upwards. You want the shiny side of the hackle facing the front of the fly as you wrap forward.
Step Eleven
12. Apply some Superfine Dry Fly Dubbing to the thread at the base of the thorax. Use only a small amount of material and push the twisted fibers up the thread to the shank. Give one wrap to lock these fibers in and you can twist the material further for more compactness.
13. Wrap a tight body on each side of the wings. Don not crowd the eye. This dubbing forms the base in which we will wrap the hackle around.
Step Thirteen
14. Wrap the hackle with three wraps behind the wings and three wraps in front of the wings. Secure the hackle from beneath the hook behind the eye. You can minimize trapping fibers by pulling the hackle upwards and locking in the quill with the first thread wrap, then bring the hackle downwards to allow the thread to go over the exposed quill without trapping the top fibers. Do this technique about 3 times to ensure a good anchor.
Step Fourteen
15. Trim off the excess hackle and secure with some thread wraps behind the eye. Whip Finish.
Step Fourteen

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