|Tying Instructions: Epoxy Buzzer|
|1. Attach the hook to the vise with the point and barb clear of the vise grips. I am using a Tiemco 2457 curved hook. Other hooks will work as well. The Daiichi 1120 and 1130 have a wide gap. You might select a heavier wire as well for larger fish. Another good hook is the Tiemco 2499sp-bl, this is a barbless and wide gap hook with a heavy wire. |
|2. Attach a ribbing wire to the bottom of the hook shank just behind the eye. Secure the ribbing along the bottom of the shank to the bend of the hook. Copper and Silver colors are the most common. Ultrawire comes in a number of wizes. The small size is generally used but you might want to use the X-small size for buzzers in the 18-20 size. A larger wire size will create an enhanced segmentation look to the pattern once the epoxy is applied. |
|3. Wrap a thread foundation. Keep the thread wraps close together with even wraps building a solid and smooth foundation. The thread foundation should end near the thorax location behind the eye. Be careful to not nick the thread on the point of the hook as small fibers will extend from the body. |
|4. Wrap the ribbing wire forward with evenly spaced wraps. Secure the tag end of the ribbing near the thorax region with thread wraps. |
|5. Attach 2 strands of Pearl Krystalflash within the thorax region for a wingcase. Buzzers tend to have an elongated thorax section that is about one third the body length. |
|6. Attach a strand of Burnt Orange Lifeflex
for wingpads to the bottom of the hook shank near the back of the thorax region. Use Figure 8
wraps to secure the material. You can use other material as well for the wingpads such as floss, biots, flashabou, etc. Buzzers typically have an orange colored wingpad but other colors are used as well.
|7. Sweep the Lifeflex strand back and build a thread thorax that is about twice the diameter as the body and about one third the length of the body. The thorax should have a elongated taper on each side. |
|8. Bring the two Pearl Krystalflash strands over the thread thorax and secure with a couple of thread wraps behind the eye. Note the I am securing these strands about one eye length behind the eye as you need some room to create a head and to hide the tag ends of the strands. |
|9. Next, bring the two sections of the Lifeflex forward on each side of the thorax and secure these strands with a few thread wraps. Lifeflex is stretchable and I stretch this somewhat to keep the strands tightly against the thread thorax sides. |
|10. Place a couple of thread wraps in front of the tag ends of the strands and trim off the tag ends. The exposed end sections of the strands will be hidden with thread wraps in the creation of the head. |
|11. Create a thread head which is about the same diameter as the thorax and whip finish. Try to not crowd the eye of the hook. |
|12. Turn the pattern upside down with the vise and apply a thin layer of epoxy to the fly. Try to keep any of the epoxy from coating the eye of the hook. If you do, clean the eye with a bobkin. I am using Loon's UV Clear Fly Finish, Thin. Applying the finish upside down helps to keep the epoxy from being excessive on the body.
|13. Use a UV light source to cure the epoxy. It only takes about 30 seconds. |
|14. The finished pattern. Note how the Pearl Krystalflash wingcase glows under the epoxy. The wingpads also disappear into the thorax section for a lifelike appearance. The ribbing is also a smoother profile of segmentation.
©2016 Steve Schalla
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