Tying Instructions: Anatomical Green Drake

1.Put the bead on first. Use a 5/64 inch for size 12 or 1/8 inch for sizes 10 and 8.
Step One
2. Fill the void of the bead with leadfree wire. Use 0.015 inch for size 12 and 10; 0.020 for size 8. Apply about 15 wraps behind the bead to designate the thorax region (about 1/2 the shank length).
Step Two
3. Secure the leadfree wire with thread wraps and wrap a thread base to the bend of the hook which will be your tail tie-in position. Apply a drop of super glue or head cement to secure the wraps to the wire.
Step Three
4.Prepare the tailing piece from a partridge feather. The tip of the feather is trimmed along the stem with a few fibers along each side at the base. Apply a small mound of thread at the tie-in position to help lift the tail. Position the tail. The bare stem nearest the fibers should be secured just in front of the thread mound. Secure the rest of the stem along the top of the shank. Trim off the butt end at the lead wraps.
Step Four
5. Attach the copper ribbing to the shank and secure to the tail tie-in position. Wrap the thread back to the lead wraps.
Step Five
6. Prepare a strip of backing. I'm using Olive Dura Skin which is a very strong transparent vinyl material. You could also use Scudback, Swiss Straw, or Medallion sheeting.The strip is slightly narrower than 1/8 inch. This is important since you want the material to wrap around only the top portion of the shank. Trim a small point to the strip and secure this tip to the top of the shank just behind the lead wraps.
Step Six
7. Secure the material with thread wraps down to the tail tie-in position. Then wrap the thread back to the lead wire.
Step Seven
8. Select a dyed Olive and a Brown or Natural Ostrich Herl. The two colors give the gills a nice mottled appearance. Secure these herls by their butt ends to the shank just behind the lead wire. Then, secure the herls to the shank with thread wraps to the tail tie-in position. Step Eight
9. With the thread at the tail tie-in position, create a dubbing loop with the thread. This is a large loop of thread about 2-3 inches long and the loop is kept apart with a dubbing loop tool. Once you've created this loop, wrap forward with the thread to the lead wire area. Twist the Ostrich Herls around one strand of the dubbing loop.
Step Nine
10. After wrapping the herl around the thread, allow the loop tool to twist the loop into a herled rope.
Step Ten
11. Wrap the herl forward to the lead wire and secure with some thread wraps. Step Eleven
12. Now, pull the back material forward and secure with some thread wraps just at the lead wire. Trim off the excess and secure the material behind the bead with thread wraps.
Step Twelve
13. Next, counter wrap the ribbing using a jiggling motion to release the Ostrich fibers that get caught. Try to get 4-5 wraps around the abdomen region, then secure with thread wraps at the lead wire.
Step Thirteen
14. Attach a second piece of Dura Skin that is slightly wider than the back piece. Secure over the lead wraps down to the herl.
Step Fourteen
15. Wrap the thread to the midpoint of the thorax region. Trim off a bunch of partridge fibers, keeping the tips aligned. I tend to stroke the fibers back so they are perpendicular to the stem and snip. Place the bunch on the top of the shank midway on the thorax. The tips should extend about twice the distance from the eye.
Step Fifteen
16. Trim off the butts with an angled cut and secure with thread wraps. Apply a number of wraps just in front of the hair bundle to push the bundle erect.
Step Sixteen
17. Apply dubbing to the thread. Anchoring a few dubbing fibers to the hook with one turn around the thorax will help you to twist the dubbing around the thread.
Step Seventeen
18. Dub an ample thorax that is about twice the diameter as the abdomen. I'm using Dark Olive Lightnin' Dub, you could also use rabbit, antron, or other synthetic dubbing that has good sinking properties.
Step Eighteen
19. Divide the partridge fibers in half with your bodkin. Use you thumb or finger to press the fibers downward in a splayed manner. The flat side of your scissors may help in pressing. Then, bring the wingcase material over the fibers and secure behind the bead.
Step Nineteen
20. Trim off the excess wingcase material and secure with additional thread wraps. I like to catch the edges of the wingcase material with my thread and use the thread pressure to force the material into the space behind the bead. Apply a small dubbed collar and whip finish.
Step Twenty

©2009 Steve Schalla
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